Hey everyone.
Just out of my first annual and my IA had me replace my brake lines (under his supervision). My 63 235 only has the hand brake. No problem, right? Wrong! After replacing the lines, I absolutely cannot get the hand brake to firm up. I've bled from bottom up using a pressure pot, and from the top down, running clear lines back to the reservoir. Brake was fine before opening everything up. I figured the master cylinder might need to be rebuilt. So I replaced the 2 main O rings. (Didn't see the "dyna-seal" in my cylinder, and it's not called out in the parts book for my serial #)
I ran clear tubes from the bleeders to the reservoir, and bled downward till there were no bubbles visible. I even removed the calipers and turned them in all directions while tapping on them in order to remove any trapper air. Tried tapping on the master cylinder also. No air coming out of bleeders.
IA said to cap off the new lines (removing the calipers) and try that. Better but still able to pull the brake to the stop.
IA put a cap on master cylinder outlet. Result is the hand brake was hard as a rock about half way back.
While leaving caps on the lines near the calipers, we tried capping off one side of the T near the master cylinder. Softer but within normal operation. Same result capping off the other side.
IA says go buy new pads and rotors, which are on order, but I'm experiencing this problem even with caps on, so I don't think that is the cause.
I don't see any leaks. Just for a sanity check, I measured the reservoir level, pumped about 50 times on the hand brake and measured again, same level. I think a leak would show a dropping level in the reservoir.
I know this subject has been hashed out a million times, but I'm at a loss. My IA is on to other projects but checking in on me. Need some new ideas here as I'm pulling my hair out at this point. Thanks in advance for feedback/advice.
Here is a photo of my caliper off while bleeding.
Just out of my first annual and my IA had me replace my brake lines (under his supervision). My 63 235 only has the hand brake. No problem, right? Wrong! After replacing the lines, I absolutely cannot get the hand brake to firm up. I've bled from bottom up using a pressure pot, and from the top down, running clear lines back to the reservoir. Brake was fine before opening everything up. I figured the master cylinder might need to be rebuilt. So I replaced the 2 main O rings. (Didn't see the "dyna-seal" in my cylinder, and it's not called out in the parts book for my serial #)
I ran clear tubes from the bleeders to the reservoir, and bled downward till there were no bubbles visible. I even removed the calipers and turned them in all directions while tapping on them in order to remove any trapper air. Tried tapping on the master cylinder also. No air coming out of bleeders.
IA said to cap off the new lines (removing the calipers) and try that. Better but still able to pull the brake to the stop.
IA put a cap on master cylinder outlet. Result is the hand brake was hard as a rock about half way back.
While leaving caps on the lines near the calipers, we tried capping off one side of the T near the master cylinder. Softer but within normal operation. Same result capping off the other side.
IA says go buy new pads and rotors, which are on order, but I'm experiencing this problem even with caps on, so I don't think that is the cause.
I don't see any leaks. Just for a sanity check, I measured the reservoir level, pumped about 50 times on the hand brake and measured again, same level. I think a leak would show a dropping level in the reservoir.
I know this subject has been hashed out a million times, but I'm at a loss. My IA is on to other projects but checking in on me. Need some new ideas here as I'm pulling my hair out at this point. Thanks in advance for feedback/advice.
Here is a photo of my caliper off while bleeding.
