For many annuals on my Arrow, it is obvious that the baggage compartment 'hat shelf' wasn't removed during 'annuals'. Most all pulleys were sorely lacking any lube and a few were frozen.
The hat shelf is hard enough to remove, but when coupled with the blower fresh air system, virtually impossible trying to work through the battery access hole. The complete ceiling system has to be removed along with the bulkhead cover.
What I did was split the bulkhead cover directly under the hat shelf. Now the bottom half can be removed while leaving the hat shelf in place. Because the bulkhead cover is held on to the bulkhead flange with simple upholstery screws, and now the top doesn't rest on the floor, I installed 6/32 nutplates in the top half of the hat shelf. To increase hat shelf rigidity, I formed a .020 flange riveted to the bottom of the hat shelf which allows me to fasten the bottom half to the top. To do any maintenance now, I remove five #6 Tinnerman screws on the part line, then the three upholstery screws on the each sides and five on the floor. The whole tailcone is now exposed without disconnecting the air system (and it's $14 a foot Scat tubing) or overhead console and cable. Everything back there will get much better attention from this point on. (When I removed the Scat tubing, it disintegratted in my hands so it obviously hasn't been out in quite a while).
Over the years, the fiberglass piece below the 'hatch' was completely broken by people leaning on it removing the battery and attempting maintenance or repairs on the gear motor and pump. I re-glassed the broken bottom piece, then added an .090 'sill' below the hatch opening. Now you can actually sit the 35 amp Concord on it without any issues.
Haven't painted the bottom or hatch yet, but did the top half before installing it now permanently.
Hope this helps.
Joe
(Tha Angry Old Man)
And you kids better get off my lawn!
The hat shelf is hard enough to remove, but when coupled with the blower fresh air system, virtually impossible trying to work through the battery access hole. The complete ceiling system has to be removed along with the bulkhead cover.
What I did was split the bulkhead cover directly under the hat shelf. Now the bottom half can be removed while leaving the hat shelf in place. Because the bulkhead cover is held on to the bulkhead flange with simple upholstery screws, and now the top doesn't rest on the floor, I installed 6/32 nutplates in the top half of the hat shelf. To increase hat shelf rigidity, I formed a .020 flange riveted to the bottom of the hat shelf which allows me to fasten the bottom half to the top. To do any maintenance now, I remove five #6 Tinnerman screws on the part line, then the three upholstery screws on the each sides and five on the floor. The whole tailcone is now exposed without disconnecting the air system (and it's $14 a foot Scat tubing) or overhead console and cable. Everything back there will get much better attention from this point on. (When I removed the Scat tubing, it disintegratted in my hands so it obviously hasn't been out in quite a while).
Over the years, the fiberglass piece below the 'hatch' was completely broken by people leaning on it removing the battery and attempting maintenance or repairs on the gear motor and pump. I re-glassed the broken bottom piece, then added an .090 'sill' below the hatch opening. Now you can actually sit the 35 amp Concord on it without any issues.
Haven't painted the bottom or hatch yet, but did the top half before installing it now permanently.
Hope this helps.
Joe
(Tha Angry Old Man)
And you kids better get off my lawn!
